Art and Ballet: A Special Sunday in Costa Rica – Part 2

The Teatro Melico Salazar was a quick ride from the museum, and we planned our schedule so we would get there in time to have a late afternoon lunch before the Ballet Nacional de Cuba performance started at 5.  The theatre has a wonderful café called Café Raventos (https://www.facebook.com/raventoscr).   They have a delightful lite menu, and the description on their Facebook page – that they are a place “filled with history and art” – fits perfectly.  We were all very happy with our selections, both in food and special coffees – or in my case, hot chocolate.  Since I will occasionally have fish when I am out, I had a wonderful trout salad.  (If you are a regular reader to this blog, you may remember that my diet is plant based except for occasional fish when I am out.)

Waiting with Artists in Residence for our late lunch.

By the time we finished our meal, the café had gotten quite full and noisy, so we were glad we had gotten there at 3 and enjoyed a leisurely meal.  The café literally leads right into the lobby, and we found our way to orchestra seats.  When I saw the Ballet Nacional de Cuba in April of 2023, I had seats in the mezzanine.  I don’t recommend that, as there are poles spaced regularly and so it’s hard to tell which seats have obstructed views.  In the orchestra, there is no problem, so that is where I plan to sit from now on.

The performance opened with Dionaea, the most abstract piece of the program.  In googling the word “Dionaea,” I discovered it refers to the Venus flytrap plant.  It’s a carnivorous plant with tiny “trigger hairs” lining its edge at the end of the plant leaves.  It snaps shut when an unsuspecting bug or spider trips one of the hairs.  A large chorus of female dancers in red unitards portrayed the plant, with their arms creating patterns to represent the triggering hair.  I was impressed by the very tight ensemble quality of the large group of dancers.  Program notes indicate that a female soloist “represents a living petal” who separates herself from the other female dancers and dances the power of attraction to three male soloists.  The tall female dancer, Sadaise Arencibia, was elegant and enticing.  The piece was choreographed by Gustavo Herrera with music by Villa-Lubos and premiered in 1984.  The costumes and set complemented the movement.

Curtain call of Dionaea (Photo by JoAnne)

The next piece, Muto, was a short solo for a male dancer. It was a haunting and technically challenging contemporary-style piece spectacularly performed by Roque Salvador.  The choreographer Alberto Mendez is well known and respected, having created many pieces for Ballet Nacional de Cuba. The music was by Edward Grieg.

A classical duet from El Corsario  (Le Corsaire) concluded the first half of the program.    It was choreographed by the company’s famous prima ballerina Alicia Alonso (1920-2019), based on the original choreography by Marius Petipa created in 1899.  It was brilliantly performed by Grettel Morejon and Yankiel Vazquez, with both duets and solo sections.

Curtain call of El Corsario (Photo by JoAnne)

The second half of the program was the ballet Carmen. The piece was created in 1967, and Alicia Alonso was well known for the role of Carmen.  Detailed program notes reminded us of the story and how the company interprets it:

The staging of the National Ballet of Cuba concentrates its intention on revealing the essential contradictions between Carmen’s rebellious personality and the forces of her time, represented by the characters that surround her. Carmen faces a society that, according to its canons, denies and judges her. The dilemma that is presented to her is to adapt or perish; and she, free, willful, individual, prefers to die.

The plot is summarized as follows: the gypsy Carmen, a beautiful and sensual woman, is terrible in her passions. She works as a cigarette maker in the factory where she has quarreled with one of her colleagues, for which she is arrested by Captain Zúñiga. Carmen seduces Sergeant José so that he forgets his duty and helps her escape, turning him into a smuggler and thief. Later, the gypsy falls in love with the young bullfighter Escamillo. José, seeing himself betrayed by Carmen, stabs her to death.

Carmen plays with the feelings of three men: Don José, the bullfighter Escamillo and Zúñiga. The famous protagonists of Merimée’s novel are located in a bullring, which symbolizes life. The fighting bull and Carmen’s destiny come together in a sinister character.

 

What an amazing event.  The Ballet Nacional de Cuba has an outstanding reputation, and it didn’t disappoint at all.  I felt the company was even stronger than when I saw it in April 2023.  In particular, the ensemble work was much tighter and the soloists both technically and emotionally outstanding.

There are so many plusses to living in Atenas, Costa Rica.  I love that it is a small town. That I live on a beautiful, spacious property filled with fruit trees and tropical flowers, overlooking mountains and farming land.  I do miss going regularly to the ballet, modern dance concerts and musical theatre.  What a wonderful treat it is when a company like  Ballet Nacional de Cuba comes to Costa Rica and I am able to attend.

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Ballet Nacional de Cuba: Costa Rica, April 23, 2023

I never would have imagined that I would get to see the Ballet Nacional de Cuba here in Costa Rica, but I did, and what a delight, for several reasons.  First, going to theatre and ballet is what I miss most in my life here.  When I saw a sign advertising the Ballet Nacional de Cuba for two performances here, I knew that I wanted to go. Second, there were some unexpected surprises in the repertory and third, it was a fun evening, providing a chance to experience a different side of life in Costa Rica.

Checking online, I was able to find that the repertory the company would be doing here was a mix of classical — which they are well known for — and some new pieces which looked intriguing.  There was even a YouTube video of one of the new pieces, and after watching it I knew for sure I wanted to get tickets.  I asked a friend who I thought might be interested, and sure enough she was and even offered to drive.  Since I knew I would be having a guest at my house on the date of the performance, I also asked if she wanted to go.  She did, and so I went online and bought three tickets in what we would call the mezzanine.  The tickets were appropriately priced but the service charge for buying them online was outrageous.  Alas, there was no other way to buy them, and you are not told about the service charge until after you have paid and see the separate amount on your credit card.

We did a bit of research on possible parking lots and decided we also wanted to have something to eat before attending the 5 PM performance.  With the help of Google Maps we made it into the area and were immediately impressed by the stature of the theater – and this wasn’t even the National Theatre.  The Melico Salazar Theatre is built in the European Baroque style.  Originally called the Raventos Theater, the building was completed in 1928. Various restorations were done over the years, and in the mid-1980’s the government bought the theatre.  By law it became a “cultural institution especializada” of the Costa Rican State.  In 1986 it was renamed to honor the famous Costa Rican tenor Manuel “Melico” Salazar.

We drove around the area, but no parking lots were open, even though some had indicated they would be open for theatre performances.  So we pulled up in front of the theatre to ask where to park.  There were several cones blocking the direct entrance but a gentleman, clearly part of the theater staff, moved the cones.  When we asked where to park, he said that for 5,000 colones (around $9), right where we were.  We were thrilled and my friend Cynthia, who had driven and who speaks perfect Spanish, had a fun conversation with Hugo.  And to make things even easier for us, the theatre has a lovely Café Raventos with a menu that worked perfectly.

Following a wonderfully relaxing late lunch, we entered the theater.  I felt my usual excitement at attending dance and theater events.  The theater definitely had a feeling of grandeur, and we found our seats.  As the theater filled, it became clear that even though we were in the 4th row of the mezzanine the slope wasn’t steep enough for us to have a clear view.  Luckily there were empty seats behind us and even one on the aisle in front. So we each were able to get a good view of the entire stage.

The first half of the program was my favorite.  It opened with The Shape of Red, a recent addition to the repertory, by choreographer Ely Regina Hernandez.  While I found an interview online where she talks about the piece, I was unable to find her bio. There were no printed programs.  With a QR code I was able to download the program, but it contained no bios, and dancers who perform main roles in pieces are not named.  The choreography incorporated a lot of modern dance moves typical of choreography in the mid-20th century, and then suddenly there was a pointe solo added in.  That was a bit surprising, but as a whole the piece’s theatrical portrayal of the color red was very satisfying, including the ending where the lead character grabs hanging fabric and is lifted into the air. If you are interested in watching the piece, it is available on YouTube, and here is the link:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxGkxIfHH2A&t=745s

My overall favorite piece was La Muerte de un Cisne, (The Dying Swan).  Choreographed by Michel Descombey (1930-2011), it opened with the roaring sound of wind blowing, and what a surprise for me to see that the Dying Swan was a male dancer in bare feet.  This was clearly going to be a different version than the original one created by Michael Fokine for Anna Pavlova in 1905.  Descombey’s choreography worked with some very interesting and original dance phrases and it was beautifully performed!  Alas there was no information about Descombey on the Ballet Nacional de Cuba’s website nor do I have any information about the dancer.  The audience loved the work, and the performer received lots of bravos. From some research online I learned that Descombey was a French ballet dancer, choreographer and director.  Most of his career was in France but the last part of his career was in Mexico. There is a video of La Muerte de un Cisne on YouTube.  Here is the link to it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4RphILIjOL0

The dancer in Ballet Nacional de Cuba caught the fragile quality much better than the performer in the link.

The other piece that that I really liked in the first half was Tres Preludes by Ben Stevenson.  A trio, it was beautifully danced by two men and a woman.  It had a simple quality to it, cleanly and playfully performed.

The rest of the program was what I had expected to see — well-trained dancers performing classical material, some of it credited to Alicia Alonso’s variation, such as the duet from Swan Lake.

The company is much loved in Cuba and the final curtain call showed that they are used to much adoration.  The Costa Rican audience was generous with its applause, but I got the feeling that the company is used to more.

It was a very special evening and a real treat to see a fine company here. I hope there will be other opportunities!

We were allowed to take photos, as long as we didn’t use a flash.  I enjoyed photographing the final curtain calls; here is the male dancer of the Dying Swan taking his solo bow.

Photo taken by JoAnne

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