Art and Ballet: A special Sunday in Costa Rica – Part 1

I was excited to see recently that Ballet Nacional de Cuba was returning to Costa Rica.  I loved the performance I saw in the spring of 2023 (Link blog May 5, 2023), so I immediately made plans to attend this time.  Three artists in residence were going to be at my home at the time of the performance, so I quickly sent off emails to them to see if they wanted to attend.  All three answered with an enthusiastic response, realizing what a treat it would be to see this outstanding company.

As we got close to the day, one of the residents asked if we could combine the performance trip with a visit to a museum in San Jose. The performance didn’t begin until 5 PM, so maybe we could visit an art museum first and then have very early dinner in the café attached to the theater.  A few google searches, and we found that while some museums were closed on Sunday, Museo de Arte Costarricense (MAC) was open.  I had been there before (Blog: March 23, 2024), but I didn’t mind going back, especially because I loved some of the sculpture in the garden and thought it would be fun to sketch.  

Leaving the house at noon, we arrived at the museum in plenty of time.  The exhibit that I had seen before, Valle Oscuro by Adrian Arguedas Ruano, was still the featured first-floor exhibit.  I decided to go upstairs, as I had heard there was a uniquely decorated room.  A sign outside the room provided information:

The Golden Room used to be La Sabana International Airport’s Diplomatic Lounge. Its walls are covered by a mural constructed from 1939 to 1940 by Louis Feron, a French Sculptor and goldsmith who lived in Costa Rica for more than 10 years.

This mural is made of stucco carved in bas relief and presents fragments of Costa Rican history from the pre-Columbian era to 1940 when the building was inaugurated. 

The room was spectacular and made one wonder what international guests were entertained there.  An informative guide asked me what country I was from, and when I said the United States, he immediately told me that among the guests was President John F. Kennedy.  Kennedy visited Costa Rica in March of 1963 to attend a summit with the presidents of six countries.

A small section of the mural by Louis Feron in The Golden Room. Photo by JoAnne

There was also a new exhibit that I hadn’t seen before by Carlos Cruz-Diez, a Venezuelan artist (1923-2019).  Wow… it reminded me a lot of Yaacov Agam’s art. Agam’s “12 Tribes of Israel” stain-glass windows are installed in the Petrie Synagogue, Hebrew Union College – Jewish Institute of Religion in New York City.  I am quite familiar with the windows, as the Petrie Synagogue (which according to a description on HUC-JIR’s website  “expresses the institution’s commitment to enlightenment and modernity”) was the main New York City performing space for the Avodah Dance Ensemble, which I founded and directed for over 30 years.  We also held workshops in this wonderfully flexible, light and airy room.  The HUC-JIR website goes on to describe the

windows:

The metaphor of light finds its expression in Yaacov Agam’s kinetic “12 Tribes of Israel” stained glass windows, which are the first three-dimensional stained and leaded glass installations in the world. Vivid shapes of color define the diverse identities of each of the twelve sons of Joseph, who are united by a shared color palette and geometry in the four windows measuring between 26’ and 29’ in height. Agam’s images are in a “state of becoming” – they cannot be seen in their totality at any one time or from any one position. They can only be discerned, as a revelation, through the viewer’s physical movement through the space.

It was an inspiration to be able to regularly rehearse, teach and perform in this unique space at HUC-JIR.  As I walked through the exhibition of Carlos Cruz-Diez’s work, I was fascinated with how, in a two-dimensional manner, he had created the sense of movement and color changes that I remembered from Agam’s work in the Petrie Synagogue as well as other work by Agam that I recently saw during my spring trip to Paris.

In doing research for this blog I googled Agam’s name with Carlos Cruz-Diez and found that actually Carlos Cruz-Diez began doing explorations in kinetic art prior to Agam.  In 1955 they were both in a seminal show in Paris called “Le Mouvemente” along with several other artists. 

I was curious why this artist’s work from a Paris show in 2014 was being shown in a museum that mainly focuses on Costa Rican artists.  A statement by Esteban Calvo, director of the museum, answered me:

This exhibition is a very significant event for the Costa Rican scene that brings the population closer to the works of one of the most influential artists of the 20th century, as well as inspiring new generations to explore the infinite possibilities of color.

A description on the Cruz-Diez website described the uniqueness of it:

On the occasion centenary of the artist’s birth, the exhibition RGB: The Colors of the century started its worldwide tour, in partnership with the Centre Pompidou and the Musée national d’art moderne. In 2024, the tour continues.

This exhibition was conceived and curated by the artist in 2014 and consists of sixteen artworks and a computer program implemented on tactile supports. It has been conceived in such a way that it doesn’t require any physical transport of works, the data allowing the realization of these works being transmitted electronically.

One of the exhibited pieces of Carlos Cruz-Diez. Photo by JoAnne

Having some time before we needed to leave the museum, I headed toward a balcony with benches that overlook a garden with sculpture and had fun drawing.

I highly recommend this delightful museum, which has free parking and free admission although you need to sign in and show ID. It is open Tuesday to Sunday, 9 AM to 4 PM.  Here’s a link to learn more.

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A Visit to a Costa Rican Art Museum Triggers a Fascination with Mascaradas

On February 17th Art House Atenas owners Anna Matteucci and Felipe Keta lead a small group of Expats to San Jose to visit two museums: The Jade Museum and the Museo de Arte Costarricense (MAC).  It was a delightful, interesting day.  My favorite exhibit was called Valle Oscuro (dark valley) by painter Adrian Arguedas Ruano at the MAC .

As one enters the museum, Arguedas’s bold colorful paintings greet you.  A few of his sculptures catch your immediate attention too.  The works fill a large gallery room and three smaller adjoining rooms, mostly picturing masked community members along with unmasked figures.  While some young children are painted wearing small masks of animals, others are wearing distorted, grotesque, large masks, and still others are depicted wearing large heads mounted on torsos making them look larger than life.

Felipe Keta talking about the artist in front of one of Arguedas’s paintings!

One of my favorite Arguedas paintings. I love the grandma in the center being surrounded by community participants, which captures the intergenerational life that is very important in Costa Rica.

All the paintings of Valle Oscuro were done between 2020 and 2022.  On the artist’s website I learned about his fascination with masks:

Arguedas is a native of Barva de Heredia, a small town known for keeping the traditions of making popular mask parades. In his childhood, he found artistic inspiration through the figure of his great-uncle, named Carlos Salas, who worked sculpting the clay to prepare the base that would later serve as a mold to create the original traditional masks, made with paper.  Salas had a powerful influence on the artist inspiration and artwork. https://www.adrianarguedas.com/bio.html

Doing more research, I learned that the mask tradition dates to pre-Hispanic time, when the aboriginal people made and used masks for various purposes. They were first used at funerals in two different ways: first, they were used by whoever led the mortuary procession so they appeared to have a higher power to lead the deceased to the other world, and second, they were given to the deceased to identify his role in the tribe.   Shamans and chiefs also made special use of the masks as part of their rituals.  These special masks are known as Mascaradas.

Today, in Costa Rica they are still part of community celebrations, and much to my delight I had an event in our town of Atenas where mascaradas were a highlight.

A friend on Facebook posted about a fundraising event on the full moon for a local church that included  food, music, dance and mascaradas. The evening was called “Lunada Bailable,” and I loved the poster.

 

I went with some cousins who were visiting from Pittsburgh, and we had a wonderful evening.  Music piped through a large sound system contributed to the festive quality of the event.  I was surprised to hear a Spanish version of “If I Were A Rich Man” from Fiddler on the Roof. When it got dark and the moon was shining bright, six local dancers began the formal entertainment. While not professional, they put all their energy into their routines.  They waved their skirts and used scarfs as props.  It was fun to watch one youngster, about age 4, who pretended she had on a long skirt and delighted in following their movement.

This was my favorite dancer to watch. She always had a smile on her face, dancing with lots of enthusiasm.

The closing event was the Mascaradas, with children from ages toddler to maybe 5 or 6 years old, wearing masks and dancing, joined by older boys and teenagers with full body masks!  The older kids liked to come over to the tables of the audience that surrounded the performing space, and pretend to scare us.

It was a special evening for my cousins and me to be a part of this community event.  I think we were the only ExPats attending.

Three photos showing the Mascaradas in action.

 

 

All photos in this blog are by JoAnne!

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